I am going to show you one of the most critical parts to printing successfully, bed leveling which is essential for your prints to stick to the build platform. Now, before we start you should be sure that your printer is tramed, which make sure that the three-movement axis are actually perpendicular to each other and then your prints don’t come out slanted. So, depending on your exact printer setup, bed leveling is either something you do just once and then never touch again. Or for some printers, especially those made from untreated plywood, it’s a procedure that you have to do every couple of weeks. If the first layer of your prints is unevenly overstuffed or too thin, it’s probably time to re-level the bed. The process I am about to explain works for most printers but some like the Mendel 90 are built differently.
So, your basic tool for leveling your printer’s bed is this, a plain piece of paper. This are usually around 70 microns thick which is ideal for this task. On your printer, you’ll find a couple off adjustment screws around the bed. These are usually either thumbscrews or hex bolts and often are paired with springs that support the printer bed. If you haven’t leveled the bed before you should set them all to about the center of the adjustment range.
Next, heat up the nozzle, move or slide the harden over to the center of the bed and set the instep o your printer z axis so you just can feel it starting to grab all to the paper between the nozzle and the bed surface when you sent the z – axis to home. Keep sliding the paper around and you’ll evenly feel when it touches the nozzle.
Next, lift the nozzle and move it over to the first corner or side of your bed that you want to adjust. Then lower the nozzle in small steps to make sure it doesn’t crash into the bed until you are all the way at the minimum of the z – axis. Again, use the piece of paper and adjust the corner down if it touches the nozzle at all. By the way, you can always check into what position your printer’s nozzle is at the moment by sending M114 via the command line.
Then, instead of adjusting the in strobe [sp?] like before, adjust the bed’s height with the adjustment screw until you can just feel the nozzle scraping on the paper when the z-axis is at its zero point. Lift the nozzle and rinse and repeat for each adjustment point around the bed. It’s also a good idea to do a second pass around each adjustment spot since you are often would be influencing the rest of the bed as well even when you’re adjusting just one corner.
When you finish all the adjustment points, you have set the nozzle to zero and about 50 microns above the bed surface. To account for that, you can either move the nozzle back to the center of the bed and adjust the z- n stub until the nozzle grabs son to the paper just a tiny bit harder or you can set an offset of minus 0.05 in your slicer. Either way, when you next print the first layer should lay down just about perfectly.
You can also check with printing a test point like the one linked in the videos description. And that’s it. Bed leveling is not a complicated process but it makes a huge difference to the reliability of your prints. And as always.
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